Duende impresses with tapas, paella
Michael Bauer
For many years, Paul Canales cooked Italian food at Oliveto in Oakland, garnering a solid reputation for his grilled meats and pastas. So when he went out on his own, it might have seemed logical he would follow a similar path.
But he took a different fork, calling upon his grandfather's Basque heritage for inspiration. His new restaurant, Duende, around the corner from Flora in a stunning black-tiled Art Deco building, has a decided Spanish bent, offering tapas, paella and an impressive list of Sherries. He also opened a bodega next door - a casual coffee house, market and wine bar.
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